Using a washing machine solenoid? (examples?)

[sendthis]

I've read people using these and I went ahead and ordered two (not sure what I'll do with the second one, but saved on shipping and now I have a backup).

Anyway, I just kind of want to get ideas how people used these. I've never done this before, but I'm pretty confident I have enough of a working knowledge on how to use these.

My plan is to run 'tee' or 'y' off the water source from the washing machine and direct it to the solenoid valves which I will mount onto a 55G barrel/drum for water storage.

The reason why I want examples is I have some concerns/questions:

1) How should I mount it for safety (electrical). Do people usually enclose these (I would prefer to)? If so, in what or with what?
2) Do people rewind them? Ideally, I would eventually like to have these controlled with a microcontroller, so using a lower voltage DC would be better.
3) What are some common mistakes when using these?
4) If I am aiming to control the temperature, do I cycle the hot water on/off to get desire effects or will reducing the voltage change the flow of the valve?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Jody]

so what is your plan for the solenoid is it running off a timer ? and why are you storing all that water ?

please explain the idea behind your setup

Hope i can help

 

[dbosman]

You won't want to use a solenoid setup for temperature control.
Turning water on and off, perhaps, but a shower mixing valve with anti-scald is much better for temperature setting.

Putting water into a barrel for aging, except under specific circumstances, isn't needed. If you start with the correct temperature water you will only have to raise on high heat tropicals. If you are on a well and need to do some water manipulation, consider adapting your fish to your water once, rather than adjusting the water to the fish - forever.

 

[sendthis]

I just want to see examples of how they're used to bet adapt/modify it for my purposes. Also, knowing the pitfalls other people have run into will help me devise a plan to mitigate water or electrical damage.

I'm not sure how the actual setup will matter for my questions though, but here goes...

Well short-term, I just want to control it with a switch. Long-term, I plan to control it with a microcontroller.

Storing the water to age it (degassing, dechlor, temperature adjusting for usage, etc).

Although, right now, if I can control the flow well enough to get consistent water temperatures, I might throw sodium thiosulfate and put in tank right away.

I have low confidence in the 'Y' connector from the source faucet (second outlet goes to washing machine) so I would prefer to electronically control it to minimize disturbing the hardware (creating possible leaks). During install, we accidentally created a leak by tightening the 'Y' connector too much (rubber washer broke).

Anyway, for now, all I want to do is fill the barrel and then from the barrel, I'm going to use a pump (MJ-1200 probably) to fill a tank.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[sendthis]

You won't want to use a solenoid setup for temperature control.
Turning water on and off, perhaps, but a shower mixing valve with anti-scald is much better for temperature setting.

Putting water into a barrel for aging, except under specific circumstances, isn't needed. If you start with the correct temperature water you will only have to raise on high heat tropicals. If you are on a well and need to do some water manipulation, consider adapting your fish to your water once, rather than adjusting the water to the fish - forever.

I run my tank straight from the tap. I have a mated pair of discus I would like to get some fry out of, but I've read that the juveniles (of any fish) are more susceptible to trapped gases in the water (more of a problem during the winter). I can usually see small bubbles on the tank and on my fish after a WC and I can see how the size of the fish will matter (a small bubble is a massive bubble to a tiny fish).

Thanks, I'll look at the shower mixing valve.

For automation, I was thinking of having a microcontroller measure the temperature and adjusting the hot water source. I might even be able to get a good idea of how long to keep each valve open to get it near that temperature and have the microcontroller manipulate the valves.

Obviously, if I age the water, I can dump all cold water and have a heater bring it to the desired temperature. The downside to this is that I will have limited storage for multiple tanks.

This is all just a plan and I want to understand all my options.

Currently, I've done the plumbing to provide a water source and drainage. Temporarily, I'll probably just control the water with a manual ball valve.

Unfortunately, I've already bought the valves. I kind of wish now I bought the 12VDC solenoid valves for this project.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Jody]

Ok

So do you have the mixing Valve set up with the solenoid if not all you got is two valves that open and close and that's it , The best controller for it would be the temp controller on a washer .

you can buy plastic boxes for use outside at electrical stores and use a hole saw and use glands for the hose/wire penetrations so its sealed to hold your setup . the solenoid valves are only going to open and close , the mixing valve well control temperature, I would also ground it electrically , the coil probably can be rewound but it is sealed and your better off getting a solenoid that don't have a coil and make your own , You can also buy cheap battery operated solenoid valves for use outside i have a few in my green house , one 9 volt battery last 2 years

hope this helps

 

[excuzzzeme]

I am on a well and it is not possible to acclimate tropicals to accept 65F water. I am always adjusting the water to the fish as already pointed out. I can tell you that is a pain and hard on the elec bill. In the winter the water gets colder yet. In your case, a solenoid is not a good idea if you are simply filling a barrel unless it is a closed pressure system. The possibility of overfill is too great, without a leveling float, if you want unattended filling. In that case I agree that for simple water storage, use a float device for on/off and use cold water only. If you are on public water, the chances of off-gassing chloramine is extremely low compared to ammonia and chlorine. You will also need to agitate the water in some fashion to assist in the off-gassing. Your idea is not without merit but unless you are doing multiple tanks is not economically feasible and would require more work than needed.

 

[sendthis]

Well, it's going to be man-in-the-loop for now.. but yeah, in the long run, I plan to have redundant sensors to shut it off (i.e. multiple float valves, multi-sourced with a moisture sensor around the barrel, controlled with lowest risk configuration - 'off' overrides all inputs from any device with an overflow to drain). In the short-term, I'm going to watch it. Yes, I plan to agitate it with a simple air pump.

This is for my new fish 'room' (actually a section of the laundry room). Currently I have four tanks with plans for 2 more. So yeah, that's why I'm trying to spend a little on plumbing.