Popular belief and RED ALGAE Cyanobacteria

noskimmer

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Mar 5, 2007
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Nick Papahatzis
Ok,

Red Algae, or Cyanobacteria to be more correct, seems to be blamed on light, or, should I say too much. It is popular belief that light is the cause of this, as some may note that I have argued that this is not the case and that it is a combination of other factors..

I have red algae, as you may know, I also don't skim but have fantastic coral growth. The two may seem contradictory to popular methods.

I have run this particular reef aquarium for some 5 years now (marine a total of about 17 years), nothing has changed apart from removing the skimmer, about 2 years ago, but recently (started about 2 months ago) I have had a red algae problem. I run light for a period of around 13 hours per day, 24 hours if you count the reverse photo period (these with mh's as well) as well as I dare to mention, the formidable natural light that comes through the window (that our expensive lights try so hard to mimic).

The reason I think I have red algae.... Not enough light, or should I say not enough of the right type of light. I'm going to replace my 3 year old, very over due Arcadia 250 watt, 13k DE lamps x 2, yes this is over $AU400, but I think it might get rid of the red algae. Why do I think this? Well for starters, why does red algae grow more where there is limited light or no light, like the parts of your sump that don't get illuminated? And it also seems to grow most where there is high flow... This is in total contradiction to what is popular belief, and where the natural light hits the tank, OMG, no red algae.

I expect delivery of the new bulbs some time this week. Nothing has changed in my aquarium that has brought on this gradual, but quite inherent build up of red algae, apart from the fact, that the light's aren't what they used to be.

In all, I might be completely wrong...., no skimmer, no mechanical filtration, very high (reprimandable) bio load, just lots of good quality live rock, good sand beds, lots of flow, and and abundant array of micro organisms, some visible some not, and I never feed my corals, but they seem to flourish. I will update, once I have replaced my bulbs, and let you know whether I have egg on my face, or if the red algae disappears...

If anything I think we all benefit.. and this is exactly what forums are about.

Anyways.... all that scum I used to skim.... If I chucked that back into my tank, I think everything would die, but all that scum that I don't skim, is still in my tank.. No? But my tank is still alive.. Maybe the stuff we skim isn't all dead stuff to start with..... something to think about.
 
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It's an interesting angle to take... And I have to agree with it to a point... I don't think its healthy to overdo your filtration and It's important to do as much biological as possible...

But the simple fact of the matter is, we are trying to mimmic the natural environment of the ocean's reefs... and we need to look at everything we put in our tanks and make sure we accomodate for them... so if your tang eats algae... feed it ALGAE. And if that means you need a little phosphate to do it... well then back off the RO water a little bit and grow some!

this balance is definitely not easy to maintain, and no one can tell you, what your tank needs or doesn't need. one person may be fine without a skimmer, while others aren't I personally don't use one, only cause I'm cheap and that's an expense I can live without... for a little while anyway.

I do have some read algae but I try to keep it down, It can become toxic if not tended to...

I also have diatom blooms sometimes... I attribute these two things to my refusal to use RO water... I even have a RO unit that I simply dont use... lol

My tap water is free from phosphates and nitrates but not from minerals...

I may have to start using it, since I've upgraded to a 125g tank and that takes alot more water, and my bioload fish coral and live rock has stayed the same...

Once again, It's balance that's important... not the equipment you choose to acheive that balance!

-LS :read:
 
as with all things in the marine hobby not one thing contributes to a problem. i started seeing some red slime and i got new pumps and new bulb and it has gone away very fast. flow plays a part as well as dissolved and undissolved organics. take all into play and then u have an answer. what u have done is take a more natural way of running ur tank and it balances out pretty nice. keep us posted i like ur thoughts.
 
Ok, I should not of complicated the purpose of the discussion with the skimming thing, please, lets just concentrate on the lights.

Germanman, after reading your response I thought I might look into it a bit more, and have found a couple of interesting things.

This is quoted from a web page, however I have cited many more supporting articles

quote: Most of the corals we keep are found at depths in the ocean where mostly blue light is found. Or rather, blue light is the main type of light that can penetrate deep within the water, as it has the shortest wavelength in the visible light spectrum. It has a wavelength of around 420-480 nm in the coral reefs of the world, and this is close to what we have in our tanks provided we have the proper type of lighting (ie good ratio of actinics to daylights, or a good Kelvin rating on our HQI bulbs). When our bulbs are new, they are pretty about keeping their wavelengths in the shorter range where they should be, but as things get older, they can't hold things as tight, just like people! So, as the bulbs get older, the light begins to stray from that 420-480 nm range, and starts to cause problems. The first problem would be that corals don't really like longer wavelength light in high proportions. The second is that we will usually see the cyanobacteria appear. Cyanobacteria thrive on light in about the 525 nm range, where they have optimal growth. This is of course the red cyano, and not the blue-green, which thrive in conditions where the light is much longer, say in the 600 nm range. So, the first thing when one sees the ol' cyano appear to think back to when they last changed the bulbs. If the lighting is provided by double-ended fluorescent lights that are either normal output (NO), high output(HO), or very high output (VHO), the bulbs should be replaced every 6 months as a good rule of thumb. This will ensure the the corals will be provided with the proper spectrum and intensity of light.


End quote

So then I started to search, cynobacteria, and light spectrum, violla! This is backed up.

Will update when I get the Lamps, it will be interesting to see if it is a gradual process or what? I'm also thinking I might have to raise the lights, just in case.

Just have to add, another interesting thing, cynobacteria is the only known thing that can convert Nitrates aerobically, rather than anaerobically. Starts to bring in a whole new aspect of reducing nitrates in your tank, (remote sump, right light wavelengths... lots of yucky cyno..)

Nick
 
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I think I know what it looks like, but do yall have any pics of the red, cyanobacteria? is it like a slime algae, a very soft red sheet of algae?
 
Bit of a delay on lights, ended up going 13k DE.

The old Arcadia, probably 4 - 5 years running 8-10 hours per day.

P5153257.JPG

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The new

P5143239.JPG

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Big difference, I have used the cheaper MH's previously, and IMO they are not worth it, these guys are the business! Don't kid yourself.

Now for the pudding, will they eliminate the Cyanobacteria? I will keep all posted.

Some before Red Algae, remember this stuff just covers everything.

P5143228.JPG


 
Almost 3 days have passed. Some interesting observations, the red algae has not got worse, but where it is in full light, it seems to have turned brown or not come back when twin spot goby has been. However where it is in filtered light, it has remained much the same. Here is a photo of it on the sand in the shade of a coral, note that to the left in full light there is no algae, however where it is filtered by the coral it seems ok.

P5183259.JPG
 
Interesting stuff about the lights and how they are related to the cyanobacteria...

Ever put any thought about temp? and how its related? I recently switched to a 125g tank from my 55g tank. I added MH light from PC lighting when I did the switch, and my bulbs were brand new...

The 125g didn't take long to cover in brown algae... Then I heard about turning the lights off for a few days to help... this worked on all the dusty looking algae, but the slimy stuff stayed.

I've had some cold nights since I turned my heat off and my house has been dipping into the low 60's and because of that, my tanks heaters can't keep up at night and the tank dips into the low to mid 70's at night... When the lights kick back on and the sun heats up the house the tank returns to normal temps for the day...

The funny thing is, my tank is doing better than ever... little to no brown algaes and my anemone seems happier.

Don't know if this is directly related to the temp cycle in the tank, or if its a byproduct of the lights off sequence etc...

I think it goes back to the age old addage...

"Theres more than one way to kill off algae"

-LS
 
I am not sure about it being toxic, however I believe it may be at sufficient levels, others may be able to help here.

Temp is an interesting one.. Cyano seems to thrive on flow, which suggests to me that it likes dissolved gas's, and dissolved gas's increase as temp decreases.. It has also been shown to remove Nitrates aerobically which it seems why it always has gas bubbles associated with it. More to think about.

Anyway update. Where the Cyano has gone brown, well it seems to have died, and where there were some sheets of it have vanished. The light seems to have burnt it to death. I can almost take a photo of the tank and not feel embarrassed! I have also been really bad with maintenance, and have specifically not changed any water during this time so the nitrates would probably be quite high.

On the down side, my fungi coral got over exposed, yesterday his skeleton was showing, and I thought he has dead, but this morning he seems better, I think that one is a touch and go..
 
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