poll: recommended algae control

[Dahlia]

I've decided to try and post a poll on the ways people control algae in their tanks... we'll see if it works (I tend to be technically uninclined). If you have a special way to keep algae in check please tell us about it!

My personal strong recommendation for tanks that do not contain snail-eating fish are Neritina reclivata snails. A few of these make short work of algae in a tank (and you can suppliment them with algae wafers, though they prefer fresh). Snails have a rasping tongue called a radula, and anyone who has watched a snail close up moving along the glass may have seen it scraping away. This particular snail eats every kind of algae I've ever introduced it to, does not eat plants (I couldn't even get it to eat lettuce, but it will eat algae off plants and leave the plant), has a beautiful shell, does not reproduce in a freshwater aquarium (it is a brackish snail aclimated to freshwater), carries a low bioload, and has a small body that does not extend much from underneath its shell, which discourages nippy fish that like to eat it or it's "antennaes" (actually called tentacles). Some of you may have seen your fish happily snacking on the wormy looking tentacles of a Pomacea bridgesi (apple snail), which makes them look pitiful and lost (although given the chance they will grow the tentacles back). They do not stand up to snail lovers like clown loaches, though.

I've seen Neritina reclivata sold under the names "trapdoor snail", "marble snail", and "olive nerite". They have olive green/brownish, shiny, hard shells with intricate patterns of black striping and are about the size of a marble. They are somewhat common in pet stores but you may have to request them. I think they are usually shipped from places in Florida where they are bred in salt/brackish water and then adjusted to fresh before being sold. Mine have lived 1-3 years before I needed to replace them, although I do not know their proper life spans. Many snails have shorter life spans in an aquarium because they are unable to hibernate in the winter, and this may be the case with nerites.

Nerites don't seem to like anything but algae, so don't expect them to clean up leftover fish food, etc. If anyone has opinions or info on these snails feel free to add it!

Some nerite photos:
nerite
nerite shell from above
nerite shell from underneath

My other recommendation for algae control is not too much light and water changes to get rid of the nitrates.

 

[OrionGirl]

I voted other, but actual use most of those methods except chemical treatment. I have bristlenose, because I think they are great fish as well as helpful tank members. I have otos in a few small tanks, but mostly got them because I really like thier appearance and schooling behavior. I added lyretail mollies to a tank recently, and was surprised at how much algae they consume daily, so guess they are on the list even though I didn't purchase them with that in mind.

For most tanks, controlling the nutrients and light works best for me. I have some amano shrimp and snails as well, where they won't become snacks. I'm not that concerned about algae, though--the glass is kept clean enough that I can see the fish, but that's about it. As long as the algae doesn't cause a problem for my other plants, I just ignore it.

 

[delmore]

I try not to over feed, and have lots of floating plants -- wisteria and water sprite. I have very little algae in my tanks, and I think that the floating plants are starving the algae, but who knows for sure...

 

[RTR]

Like OG, I voted "other: also, as I use multiple of the options listed - Proper conditions foremost, but also snails (MTS, ramshorns, & common pond), otos, bristlenose, peckoltia and dwarf panaques (but never common plecos - too big and clumsy), SAEs (real only), shrimp (Amano, Southern Marsh, and Red Cherry - not even listed), razor blades, and adding nitrates as needed.

 

[Dahlia]

Hmm you add nitrates to get rid of algae? Do they just respond to phosphates and not nitrates? I'm curious about what you meant here (especially if I need to be corrected on something!)

I wish I'd thought to put live plants and "I like my algae, it's neat!" as options on that poll, too.

 

[WolfPup522]

I also voted other. Specifically, I've used otos, algae scraper, and american flagfish for that stubborn black hair algae.

 

[anonapersona]

Other

I use otos, snails, shrimp (amano), monitoring fertilizer needs, scraper (hardly needed now).

Most important is the balance of light vs nutrients.

And the other thing not listed, patience. I boosted the light on a tank recently and it is still out of whack, I'm trying to find the right balance of fertilizers to get it cleaned up again. It is possible that the Hagen CO2 cannot keep up with the light now. Or maybe it is just fertilizers.

 

[mogurnda]

Everything on the list but SAEs, chemicals, and common plecos.
Not on the list:
Shrimp (amano and Brazilian)
Platies (great for anything filamentous)
Peckoltia (get what the platies don't)

 

[kveeti]

Originally posted by Dahlia
Hmm you add nitrates to get rid of algae? Do they just respond to phosphates and not nitrates? I'm curious about what you meant here (especially if I need to be corrected on something!)

What I’ve learned since I dove into planted tanks just over a year ago, is that plants (certain types more than others) will really suck up the nitrates. There has to be some nitrates left for them; that is just one of many nutrients that is part of the “balance” which will make plants grow well and win over algae. Obviously, you do not want high nitrates, but you do want some. On one of my tanks where the water sprite runs rampant, I must add nitrates or they will be at 0, even without water changes. I don’t remember offhand what the rule is for nitrate readings, but I like to keep mine around 10 on the little chart.

 

[RTR]

kveeti got it in one. Tanks with insufficient nitrate will get algae because the plants require nitrogen. I aim for 5-10ppm, don't sweat 15ppm short term. N ratio seems best about 10:1 in my tanks, but I don't phosphate test very often. I'm not high light/high CO2/ high growth rate, I'm more moderate light, moderate supplement, moderate growth. My brighter tanks do require nitrogen supplement at least weekly. Undetectable nitrogen on a low range test is not good for me.