Light 6700K vs. 10000K and algae

I would suspect that CO2 is low for the lighting you have now. Spectrum shifting the lights will help, but I don't think it is going to solve it. Picking up a drop checker would give you a better idea on CO2 requirements.

A faster growing stem plant, even if temporary to the tank, would hopefully let you at least get ahead of the curve. Also might consider a floater to help light starve the algae. It may have also just been my experience, but when I was fighting hair algae in my invert tank, I upped the flow of the filter output and that seemed to help.
 
Left C said:
I just ordered 2 of those 65w 8800K bulbs. The shipping was $6.99 for a total of $16.97. That's not bad for 2 bulbs shipped.
Click to expand...

Look at all this algae form these bulbs:

cards2.jpg



10000K grow plants fine, so do 6700K.
You have bigger issue than color temps.

CO2........you need to stop messing with light and start thinking more about mastering CO2.
130W on a 55 gal tank is fine etc, a bit high actually, but you should REALLY focus on CO2 and getting the right amoutn and also, make sure to keep the O2 and current up, since respiration by fish is both O2 and CO2, this will prevent gasping fish MUCH more.




Regards,
Tom Barr
 
golfproinlexky said:
... I am running pressurized CO2, but don't have a lot of control on it. It runs with my lights at a rate of 1 bubble per 2 seconds. I'm sure that has something to do with it too.
Click to expand...
That sounds like it could be a low rate for your 55g. Do you have a drop checker with the 4 dKH solution? If not, get one. Here's an inexpensive source of 4 dKH solution. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230548265770&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Some people have asked if you are adding and nutrients. Are you? If not, take a look at EI in the stickies and order some dry ferts. This is the cheapest and most effective way to go. You can easily adjust it as needed.

Do you have a lot of plants? If not, stock it up. Get some fast growing plants in the mix.

Do you have an algae eating crew?

Many people use two timers. One for their lighting and one for their solenoid. They have the CO2 starting up one to two hours before the lights come on and it turns off an hour or two before the lights turn off. This way, you can have an adequate CO2 level when the lights are on and a low level for your critters when the lights are off.

Your algae is caused by a combination of problems and not your lighting alone. You need to get your aquarium in balance with a good CO2 level, nutrient level, water changes and lighting.

PS: I don't understand how you could look at your aquarium with those 50/50 saltwater bulbs. They usually make planted aquariums look like crap. LOL
 
Yeap I remember this argument I had once before. I have been told 10k grows just as well as 67K. However Actnic bulbs to ABSOULUTLY nothing benificial.

Drop the Actnic and run 2 10k or you can run 1 6700K and 1 10,000K. But yea get yourself the drop checker and some 4dKh solution ( don't use your tank water)
 
jasonG75 said:
Yeap I remember this argument I had once before. I have been told 10k grows just as well as 67K. However Actnic bulbs to ABSOULUTLY nothing benificial.

Drop the Actnic and run 2 10k or you can run 1 6700K and 1 10,000K. But yea get yourself the drop checker and some 4dKh solution ( don't use your tank water)
Click to expand...
I don't know if that is absolutely true...I had 50/50 CF on my 72G and my madagascar lace went bonkers. I switched to 6700k and it basically stopped putting out new leaves. Now, some other things happened also, but nothing as drastic as the lighting changing. My pet theory is that actinics may actually help some plants. But, it ain't causing the algae.
 
golfproinlexky said:
Thanks for the find - unfortunately I have straight pin bulbs. It seems like I always have the least effective most expensive possible setup when I do something. The good news is that I do have a couple of 6700K bulbs in storage, so I'll be making the switch today.

I am running pressurized CO2, but don't have a lot of control on it. It runs with my lights at a rate of 1 bubble per 2 seconds. I'm sure that has something to do with it too.
Click to expand...
If you look at sites like bulblighting.com or 1000bulbs.com, straight-pin tubes are actually cheaper and more readily available than the square-pin tubes. I'm thinking of switching out my endcaps to straight pin to take advantage of the savings. Why pay $20 for a so-called aquarium tube when a generic one is $10? The aquarium industry does have a habit of relabeling standard goods to make them sound like they're specifically designed for aquarium use.

http://www.buylighting.com/55-Watt-PLL-6500K-Daylight-p/e49312.htm
 
DJDrZ said:
I don't know if that is absolutely true...I had 50/50 CF on my 72G and my madagascar lace went bonkers. I switched to 6700k and it basically stopped putting out new leaves. Now, some other things happened also, but nothing as drastic as the lighting changing. My pet theory is that actinics may actually help some plants. But, it ain't causing the algae.
Click to expand...

From what I saw doing research on setting up my planted tank, there is a long ongoing debate on the value of actinic bulbs.

The general theory I've seen is that the plants most likely still use the light, but it encourages the 'wrong' type of growth by making the plant believe it is not getting direct light. Could explain why some plants do better with it then others, since some plants may not want to be in direct light to begin with while others may go out of their way to stay out of the shade.


Algae is supposed to be better at adapting to light levels so it may be better at using the actinic light, but I'd agree that it probably isn't causing the algae. May be helping it a little, but not causing it.
 
plantbrain said:
Look at all this algae form these bulbs:

cards2.jpg



10000K grow plants fine, so do 6700K.
You have bigger issue than color temps.

CO2........you need to stop messing with light and start thinking more about mastering CO2.
130W on a 55 gal tank is fine etc, a bit high actually, but you should REALLY focus on CO2 and getting the right amoutn and also, make sure to keep the O2 and current up, since respiration by fish is both O2 and CO2, this will prevent gasping fish MUCH more.




Regards,
Tom Barr
Click to expand...
What are those two foregrounds plants in the pic.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom