Help! My tank wont clear up.

you don't want to by products to put in your filter that remove ammonia, the ammonia will be eaten by the benificial bacteria that you need to have for the nitrogen cycle. after the benificial bacteria tha eat the amminia gets started you will develop benificial bacteria that eat nitrites, the 2nd part of the nitrogen cycle. the bacteria that eat the nitrites will give you nitrates. You get rid of excess nitrate by doing partial water changes.

So you want the pads, and the bio balls and maybe even the carbon. But don't get things that remove ammonia or nitites because that's what the benificial bacteria use as food to keep your tank healthy.

If you are on a municipal water system you will want something like PRIME that treats ammonia (changes its form so it is not harmful to your fish) and gets rid of chlorine and chloramines. Yoou also need a liquid test kit. The API freshwater master test kit will give you the tests that you need.
your goal is to have 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and 0-40ppm of nitrates. this will signal a "cycled" tank.
So while the benificial bacteria build up you want to do partial water changes with treated water if your readings for ammonia or nitrites is above 0ppm.
I know this all can be confusing you can read about the nitrogen cycle and cycling your tank at the top of the "newbie forum" in the stickies. Keep asking questions, you'll be fine. oh and use tank water that you take out to do the partial water changes to rinse your pads, and filter media with. Only when it's time to do filter maintenace not every time you do water changes.
linda
 
Ok results are done. The ammonia is 0, PH is around 7.6 and the Nitrate is 5 ish. I tested the water 2 days ago and have done a water change yesterday.
 
Ok maybe stupid question. The liquid test I did for nitrate is on the color 5.0 for low range and 25 for high range. How do I tell the difference.
 
I will leave everything as is. I did get rid of the ammonia pad and will keep checking the levels. Should I use the ammonia granules when I get them in or wait until I see the levels going up.

Do NOT use anything to remove ammonia yet. In all reality, you probably won't need them.
 
Ok maybe stupid question. The liquid test I did for nitrate is on the color 5.0 for low range and 25 for high range. How do I tell the difference.

There should be a different graph for each type of test. On the API test, there's pH, high range pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Compare against the nitrate bar.
 
you want to remove the 'ammonia pad', since it will remove the ammonia and the bacteria that you need to build up in your filter and in your tank need ammonia to survive. a filter is best when there is tons of surface area for bacteria to populate on.

leave your filter alone unless you see reduced flow coming out. i have a rena xp4 and i only clean it every few months now, and that's with two big fish in the tank making some big poops! my media is configured with sponges in the bottom two trays, biomax completely filling the third tray, and polyester batting in the top tray. works wonderfully.

your tank is still experiencing a bacterial bloom, and trying to establish itself. rinsing the filter media in tap water has set you back but all is not lost, just keep doing those water changes when you see any reading other than zero for ammonia and nitrite, and use Prime for your dechlorinator (it converts ammonia to ammonium, which is harmless to fish, for a 24 hour period after dosing).

+1. There is never really a reason to use the Ammonia removers. A properly cycled tank will take care of its own levels.
 
if your order from dr. foster hasn't shipped yet maybe you could give them a call and substitute the ammonia granules for fish food or something?
 
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