Bumblebee shrimp ripped berries & swimmerets from a cherry shrimp!

The water sprite is good, but double the lighting would definitely help. The WPG rule breaks down for tanks 10g and smaller, unfortunately. I'd forgotten about your temp issue; that's a more likely source of the die off in my opinion. Even so, if it were my tank I'd add some more light, if only temporarily.

Either way, good luck!

MORE LIGHT?!?! :omg: Hooray! Another excuse to screw around with equipment and maybe even buy some more!!!! Oh, except I'm really poor. :cry:

I actually just saw a 2x9W PC, 13" light that would sit happily on top of my tank and was thinking how much I'd like to replace my current 5 gal's hood with it and a pane of plexiglass. But I thought that 18 watts, coming from power compact tubes, would be too bright for the comfort of the shrimp.

I think we need a better system than wpg. Lumens/square foot? I mean, different kinds of lights produce or or less lumens/watt than each other. I think PC lights are particularly potent.

I think I'm going to buy that light - after shopping around a bit. I think there's a 13" 24W PC fixture by Odyssea, with mounting legs and all for $23 in a shop in the next town over. It sits like three inches higher over the water's surface, which makes it less potent in terms of light reaching the bottom but I worry it still would be too bright. The 18W fixture is $34!

ANYHOWis it possible to be too bright for shrimp? I mean, yes obviously it is, but I mean within reason. If it isn't too bright for fish that live in bright conditions, does that mean it's OK for shrimp?

So, the shrimp seem to be doing well. I measure for NH3/NH4 and N02 in the shrimp tank AND the fish tank. The fish tank is consistently 0 and 0, with nitrate ~10 when I measure it. The shrimp tank has been going through a little cycle. This AM the ammonia was still non-zero but under .25ppm, maybe even a little less greenish than last night. The nitrite was non-zero for the first time in a couple of months. It wasn't at .25ppm quite but it was clearly non-zero. I exchanged about 80% of its water with water from the fish tank.

I fed the shrimp an algae wafer which they mostly ignored. They seem to be happily grazing everywhere, though.

How often ought I try feeding them? I use a turkey baster to suck up any uneaten food from the sand (the sand sucked up settles out of the end of the baster quickly but the food stays inside) so I don't have to worry about wasted food rotting. I thought tonight I'd blanch a slice of zucchini and try feeding them with it.

I turned the temp. down to 75ºF. It seems like that might be the happiest compromise between the needs of the bumblebees, tigers, cherries, greens, and ghosts. I have the PH at 6.8 and if I've dosed correctly, 3GH. No idea what the KH might be.

Since the largest fish in the fish tank is <1.5"long (rasbora vaterifloris) and most are ~1" and less, I thought maybe I should keep the ghost shrimp, rainbow/green shrimp, and the tiger shrimp in there and make the shrimp tank a red cherry shrimp and bumblebee shrimp tank only, setting the temp. and PH to suit the bumblebee's needs since rcs don't seem to care much about such things.

Feedback?
 
That's a good question; I have no idea how much light is too much light :) I figure keep it under 4wpg... I run 2.6 on my 29g and 2.7 on my 20g. I tend to opt for cheap shoplight + cfl setups which aren't as efficient as a good PC or T5HO setup. In any case, algae becomes serious problem without CO2 at that level...

I try to feed mine every other day. A general rule of thumb I've read is that if they don't finish everything you feed them within 2 - 3, hours it's too much.
 
That's a good question; I have no idea how much light is too much light :) I figure keep it under 4wpg... I run 2.6 on my 29g and 2.7 on my 20g. I tend to opt for cheap shoplight + cfl setups which aren't as efficient as a good PC or T5HO setup. In any case, algae becomes serious problem without CO2 at that level...

I try to feed mine every other day. A general rule of thumb I've read is that if they don't finish everything you feed them within 2 - 3, hours it's too much.

You've inspired me! I'm commandeering a neglected desk-lamp and putting a 6700K 27W cfl "bulb" in it. The lamp is about a foot and a half or two feet above the surface of the water, so the light is not too intense by the time it reaches into the tank. Tried with a 14W cfl and it seemed a bit dim.

I ended up feeding the shrimps an algae wafer and they ate it all. I'm amazed, have never seen them eat so much.

Interestingly enough, I ended up with another berried cherry shrimp and introduced her. The bumblebee shrimp sorta half-heartedly followed her around and lost interest but two tiger shrimp took turns riding on her back and pawing at the berries! I made a little isolation chamber of an empty plastic jar, a rubberband, and a piece of plastic from a bag, with holes punched in it, from the LFS. I put some java moss in it for the shrimplets when they come.

I think it's very strange the female cherry shrimp does nothing to defend herself or her eggs or to evade other shrimp!

parameters 0,~0,~10
 
Hmm, maybe some shrimp pellets would distract them? Mine love HBH shrimp pellets, which I only occasionally feed to them now (I regularly feed mosura excel and ken's veggie sticks).

In any case, I say imprison the attackers, not the victim! What kind of justice system are you running there in your tanks!? :D

The big downside of using shop lights or desk lamps is the additional height they require above the tanks (a problem for my rack setup). And they make it a bit of a pain to get into the tanks since mine sit directly on the glass lids.
 
OMFG!

I felt uneasy about the nitrite level and tested it again and found it to be ~.25ppm and I panicked!

I read on my bottle of Prime to dose 5x to detoxify nitrite in emergencies. So I did. 2 drops per gallon x 5 gallons x 5 =50 drops. I counted them into a cup of water and stopped at 40 ('cause the water already had 10 drops in it) and then poured it in slowly.. Then I left the room for 15 minutes and returned to find floating and stunned shrimp!!!!!

In the end, two bumblebee shrimp died and one "super tiger" (a tiger shrimp with especially bold stripes in a deep rust color).

I quickly siphoned off about 3 gallons and siphoned 3 more gallons back in from the bigger tank. Fortunately I keep both tanks at the same temperature, ph, and gH so I can just do a quick emergency water change like that.

Why do I keep using Seachem's products?!? I'm so frickin' mad at them now! You know I'll be lucky if none of the other shrimp die later due to the stress of the whole episode. I followed their directions and my shrimp died. If I'd been away for more than 15 minutes, I wonder how many would've croaked!

Anyhow shrimp-babymomma is doing alright. I put a shrimp pellet in the tank (shrimp eating shrimp!) and the survivors are eating!

I call what babymomma shrimp is in "protective custody." There are still six bumblebee shrimp left and only one of her, so...
 
How come you didn't do a water change when the nitrites were .25? That would have solved it right there. I understand you have some ammonia from the tap but I think if doing small water changes it would not affect your current set up. I'm pretty certain my tap has some nitrates or something but it's never affected my tanks. The prime should neutralize the ammonia and make it none toxic.
Anyway I wouldn't blame the Prime in this case. The instructions most likely did not consider shrimp which are much more sensitive than fish. Prime is a good product, I've always used it with my inverts without a problem though I'm never tried dosing 5x the amount.
 
How come you didn't do a water change when the nitrites were .25? That would have solved it right there. I understand you have some ammonia from the tap but I think if doing small water changes it would not affect your current set up. I'm pretty certain my tap has some nitrates or something but it's never affected my tanks. The prime should neutralize the ammonia and make it none toxic.
Anyway I wouldn't blame the Prime in this case. The instructions most likely did not consider shrimp which are much more sensitive than fish. Prime is a good product, I've always used it with my inverts without a problem though I'm never tried dosing 5x the amount.

Well, if the tap water had .5ppm ammonia and 0ppm nitrite, a 50% change would be required to bring nitrite down from .25ppm to .125ppm, but it would bring ammonia up by .25ppm.

My understanding is that shrimp are unstable at virtually any non-zero level of NO2, so that 50% change might have helped, but not solved the problem. Smaller changes would have helped less. Oh, but since the tank is going through a little cycle, more nitrite would have formed as I added more ammonia, even ammonia neutralized by Prime. So I thought I'd use Prime as suggested on its label to detoxify nitrite and spare the shrimp yet another water change - it's been suggested to me by many experienced shrimp keepers that shrimp do better with fewer water changes.

Nitrates are not nearly the problem nitrites are, so it's not surprising your tap water doesn't affect your tanks.

Prime purports to neutralize nitrite and make it non-toxic as well as ammonia, and suggests 5x dosing in order to do so.

I don't really blame Prime. As you point out, the INSTRUCTIONS do not consider shrimp. Seachem, a major, mainstream company in the aquarium hobby industry (which hobby includes shrimp as well as fish commonly) is responsible for the instructions printed on their effective and powerfully concentrated product, Prime; instructions which don't take into account a growingly important section of the freshwater aquarium hobby - freshwater shrimp. Instructions which make no mention of any possible issues with any delicate and sensitive creatures. Nope, I don't blame Prime. Prime is a very convenient water conditioner, especially for someone like me who is on a tight budget and has tap water with plenty of ammonia in it. Prime is great at that job.

I blame Seachem, who sell Prime as a conditioner and then, as almost an afterthought, suggest its use as a nitrite detoxifier on the label. On their own site, they say they don't know how it possibly accomplishes this but they've accumulated enough anecdotal evidence to, well, here is what they say: "A: The detoxification of nitrite and nitrate by Prime (when used at elevated levels) is not well understood from a mechanistic standpoint. The most likely explanation is that the nitrite and nitrate is removed in a manner similar to the way ammonia is removed; i.e. it is bound and held in a inert state until such time that bacteria in the biological filter are able to take a hold of it, break it apart and use it. Two other possible scenarios are reduction to nitrogen (N2) gas or conversion into a benign organic nitrogen compound.
I wish we had some more "concrete" explanation, but the end result is the same, it does actually detoxify nitrite and nitrate. This was unexpected chemically and thus initially we were not even aware of this, however we received numerous reports from customers stating that when they overdosed with Prime they were able to reduce or eliminate the high death rates they experienced when their nitrite and nitrate levels were high. We have received enough reports to date to ensure that this is no fluke and is in fact a verifiable function of the product."

You can find that quote on this page: http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Prime.html

On the label of my Prime, there is no mention of their complete ignorance of how their product detoxifies nitrites or lack of scientific evidence that it really even does so.

I'll still use Prime for its PRIME-ary purpose, to condition my water out of the tap. I will NEVER use it for anything which calls for more than 1xdose. I really like just having to use two drops per gallon of water.

I think Seachem owes me an apology, plus they should update their labeling to mention the issue of sensitive creatures like shrimp and they should stop claiming their product can do something which they only know about by 3rd party anecdotal evidence. They should study their flagship product a little closer and discover exactly what it does with nitrites and nitrates AND they should establish how much Prime it is safe to use per gallon when crustaceans are involved. As well as an apology, I think I deserve a coupon for a nice bottle of Prime or maybe jar of Neutral Regulator (another excellent but occasionally deadly-to-shrimp-and-plants product of Seachem's). My shrimp were worth that much to me at least.

As a matter of fact, I am going to write to Seachem and ask for a coupon. I actually like their products. After a brief disenchantment, I've returned to using Neutral Regulator, Discus Buffer, and Equilibrium because they allow me to pick and choose my PH and gH. I really do like their products. I like Prime. I just think Seachem is careless with their claims and their labelling. The products are good and they'd be even better if their claims were restricted to known facts rather than anecdotes and if their instructions took into account such common things as shrimp, perhaps mentioning the product should not be used above certain concentrations with shrimp or other delicate critters. Like with Neutral Regulator/Discus Buffer, you can use them with plants and shrimp; use a little too much and your cabomba and watersprite will grow stunted and die while your shrimp cloud up one by one and move on too that great "Red Lobster" in the sky. Now that I'm over my snit, I'm using them with shrimp and plants again. I just know to be careful. It would just be nice if Seachem would acknowledge their phosphate buffers potential to hurt plants and shrimp at relatively low levels of overdose.
 
it's been suggested to me by many experienced shrimp keepers that shrimp do better with fewer water changes.

That may be true but when going through a cycle you need to change the water if there are fish/invertebrates living in the tank or they will die. Nitrite is just as bad for shrimp as ammonia. Also you don't need to do 5x dose of prime to neutralize ammonia. Just the normal dose will do. I think a water change would have been more beneficial once the nirtrite showed up. Have you been doing regular water changes on the tank since the mini cycle started? I change 20% of the water in my shrimp/snail tank once a week and they seem to do fine.
 
A nutrient spike due to over feeding is easy to rectify and notice, especially if you're doing water changes and testing. My guess is that they were hungry, and the lazy, tired mama shrimp got beaten up.

Mama shrimp handle and toss their eggs with their spinnerets frequently, she would have been exhausted.

If you don't want to do a water change, and I assume this is a planted tank..
feed a bit more, let it sit on the bottom, and then the shrimp have something to eat. Maybe they prefer food over algae? You can always do a quick vacuum of the substrate - funny, that's how I noticed my baby cherries. this will remove the excess food, but also, any of the food that did get broken down would turn into nitrate for your plants.

I'm a bit of a noob, but I never had ammonia spikes in a planted tank unless it was rich of nutrients - aka i worked too much to do a water change. my water changes were also mostly gravel vacuums. I over fed a lot, but I saw results and really juicy fauna. especially my cherries!


Do you have a real filter, or just a sponge filter? If you have good biofiltration and plant the extra food shouldn't spike too much.

As for food, zucchini is hearty and you can remove the waste. But if there isn't a source of constant food (moss, dying valisneria leaves, etc) then hunger takes over.
 
Also you don't need to do 5x dose of prime to neutralize ammonia. Just the normal dose will do. I think a water change would have been more beneficial once the nirtrite showed up. Have you been doing regular water changes on the tank since the mini cycle started? I change 20% of the water in my shrimp/snail tank once a week and they seem to do fine.

Actually, the 5x dose of Prime was, as the label on the product indicates, in order to detoxify nitrites, not ammonia. My invert tank's ammonia is now 0 and was ~0 at the time. I will repeat: the Prime 5x was to neutralize NITRITE, not ammonia.

Yes, I've been doing water changes since the ammonia showed up and have continued with the nitrite. I was just trying to neutralize the nitrite in the tank which would have been left over after changing water. A 30% water change leaves 70% of the old water and therefore 70% of the nitrite behind.




A nutrient spike due to over feeding is easy to rectify and notice, especially if you're doing water changes and testing. My guess is that they were hungry, and the lazy, tired mama shrimp got beaten up.

Mama shrimp handle and toss their eggs with their spinnerets frequently, she would have been exhausted.

If you don't want to do a water change, and I assume this is a planted tank..
feed a bit more, let it sit on the bottom, and then the shrimp have something to eat. Maybe they prefer food over algae? You can always do a quick vacuum of the substrate - funny, that's how I noticed my baby cherries. this will remove the excess food, but also, any of the food that did get broken down would turn into nitrate for your plants.

I'm a bit of a noob, but I never had ammonia spikes in a planted tank unless it was rich of nutrients - aka i worked too much to do a water change. my water changes were also mostly gravel vacuums. I over fed a lot, but I saw results and really juicy fauna. especially my cherries!


Do you have a real filter, or just a sponge filter? If you have good biofiltration and plant the extra food shouldn't spike too much.

As for food, zucchini is hearty and you can remove the waste. But if there isn't a source of constant food (moss, dying valisneria leaves, etc) then hunger takes over.

Thank you for the kind advice. Yes, it is a planted tank but I have been doing water changes - actually I've been taking water from a very well established, larger planted tank. Also, I've begun feeding regularly already and there are plenty of plants and mosses with dying bits here and there for the shrimp to munch on. I got a new mama shrimp and they're ignoring her at this point. I have a "real" filter - an internal one with much much sintered glass biomedia and a big, puffy wad of filter-floss covering the intake.

The nutrient spike was the result of growing out five juvenile Celestial pearl danios - they didn't notice the flake unless there was a LOT of it and they needed frequent feedings because they'd eaten up all the daphnia, ostracods, and most of the copepods in the tank. The ammonia started to appear just as I was moving the now grown up cpds to the fish tank. The ammonia was 0 this morning and nitrite is >0 but <.25ppm, which is good - it's going down.

My substrate is a deep sand bed, which I never vacuum. To some that seems a little extreme, but it works fine. I do spot-vacuum with a turkey baster to pick up lumps of old algae wafers and any other particularly egregious mounds of decay. See: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215174

Anyhow, I had one more Prime-related fatality, a shrimp that was too stressed to make it through the night. Mama shrimp is OK, though. I think all should be well from here on in.
 
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