I doubt you have .25 ppm of ammonia in your tank on a constant basis. This would be almost impossible for one to do intentionally. So what is going on?
For one thing, plants use ammonium and the bacteria use the ammonia. Combined these atre Total Ammonia which is what most kits read. The plants can uptake ammonium faster than the bacteria can use ammonia. So in a tank with plants, anything the plants use will never become nitrite or nitrate in the water, Moreover, many plants will use nitrate. This is a less efficient process since the plant must expend energy to turn the nitrate back into something it can use. Finally, nirate test kits are not all that accurate and they are the least accurate between 0 and 20 ppm.
Next is the bacteria themselves. The nitrifying bacteria do not form spores, they multiply by dividing. They only divide when there is more ammonia or nitrite than they can use. So if you actually had that excess .25 ppm of ammonia, the bacteria would increase to handle it and then there would be a 0 ammonia reading. If you have .25 ppm of ammonia in your tap, your tank would soon be handling it as soon as it went into the tank. The ammonia bacteria under good conditions will double in about 8 hours or so. Assuming your tank handles all the ammonia the fish and degrading organics create, it would pretty rapidly be able to handle an extra .25 ppm. So just having .25 ppm of ammonia in ones tap should not be a problem for more than a few hours and then it should be gone. To keep getting a .25 reading in the tank requires that the amount of ammonia in your tap had to keep increasing so it remains .25 ppm higher than the bacteria can handle without diving.
I can calculate how much of a level of .25 ppm of Total Ammonia is in each form in your tank since you have provided the pH and temp. which one needs to make this calculation. At a pH of 7.6 and a temp. of 78F and .25 ppm TA. Your ammonia (NH3) is at 0.0059 ppm and your ammonium (NH4) is 0.2441 ppm. The level below which we want to keep ammonia (NH3) is 0.05 ppm. So, even if your ammonia reading were real, there is not anough NH3 to care about and that amount of NH4 is not much of a concern.
Finally, most dechlors today will breakdown chloramine and also detoxify ammonia and often neutralize some of the metals. Chloramine is not an issue. As for getting an accurate reading of ammonia levels, here is what SeaChem suggests re Prime:
(Red color added by me) From
https://www.seachem.com/prime.php Click on FAQ.
I would not use Cycle. You do not need it and it will not help.
Otos are pretty sensitive fish. If you did have .25 ppm TA it should bother them even as ammonium. And finally, to my old eyes your test kit pic looks like it show 0 ammonia. This is the problem with the colormetric tests we use our eyes to read. How any color appears to one person is subjective. So if you show you result to a dozen people, you will not get 12 idenbtical answers when you ask them to determine the test result.