Do I have too many fish in my 20 gallon tank

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Tattoo Dave

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Dave you need test drops for PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and you can test the water for ph at anytime really but you need to test the water for ammonia daily while cycling even if there is a little you have to do a water change until the ammonia level is 0 even a level of 0.25 can hurt you fish getting it to 0 steadily could take a few weeks then you should start testing for nitrite daily and once you see nitrite do water changes again until the nitrite is 0 this could take time as well and then start testing for nitrate once you see atleast a reading of 5-10 then your cycled. The testing drops are much better than the strips if you can get the API ones those are very good. I also used a few danios to start my fishy cycle because they are very hardy and can tolerate the levels of ammonia that some fish can't and can survive for a long time after that. Once I had my tank cycled then I added my other fish when you cycle a tank you risk losing those that can't tolerate the ammonia and nitrite levels and end up losing a lot of money too. Good luck hope all goes well.
Thank you for the advice I plan on getting a new test kit tomorrow. It's starting to look better I did a 50% water change and then a 25% change again the next day wasn't sure if 50% would be ok and Planned on changing another 25% tonight. I didn't want to change to much to soon but I also don't want to wait to long either. I'm learning slowly but learning. Thanks again
 

Tattoo Dave

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My tank cleared up. I'm not sure what the correct levels should be. I'm sure different fish require different levels. Have Tetra's, Peppered and Green Cory's, and a Rubber Nosed Pleco. Gh - 120, Kh - 100, Ph - 6.8, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate - 0. Where's the best place to check on what is best for these levels? And thanks
 

Rbishop

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Steady levels are best instead of trying to achieve a natural habitat condition that most sites reference. Unless you are breeding specific fish, and then they should be in their own tank, work with what you have with minimal additives.
 
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Tattoo Dave

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Steady levels are best instead of trying to achieve a natural habitat condition that most sites reference. Unless you are breeding specific fish, and then they should be in their own tank, work with what you have with minimal additives.
OK thank you I just want to make sure everything is at safe levels for my fish. Thanks again for you help.
 

Tattoo Dave

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My Nitrite level is at 0 my Nitrate level is at 20. Is that bad? The Kh is 120 Gh is 120 the Ph is 7.0. I thought I read somewhere that the tank should have some Nitrate but not 100% sure on that. Could someone answer that for me or point me in the right direction to find the answers and what are a few good books on tropical fish that way I don't have so many questions. I really appreciate how friendly and helpful everyone has been. I'm glad I joined aquariumcentral you guys are great.
 

SnakeIce

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Nitrate is a end product of the waste your fish produce, it has some effect, such that you don't want a lot more than 20ppm but it isn't going to kill your fish. Ammonia and nitrite are the less oxidized version of Nitrate and those two do damage to gills and in that way are hard on your fish. A tank that shows either ammonia or nitrite are evidence that there is insufficient "cycle", which refers to the bacterium that use those two toxic forms and change it in two steps to nitrate.

Any time you test and see ammonia or nitrite do water changes to get the levels down. If you are doing regular weekly water changes it will be no problem to do two or more 50% changes in a day if needed until you don't have any ammonia or nitrite readings.

Now for the regular maintenance part. That Nitrate isn't a big problem but if it gets to high it can be evidence of other issues which are solved by doing water changes. In a tank with no plants nitrate is something easily tested for that is used to give you some idea where you stand on things you can't easily test for (buffering, having minerals available to your fish, removal of hormones and other non nitrogenous pollutants etc.) You don't have to understand all that as long as you keep Nitrates down with water changes.

I suggest that you test your source water for a baseline nitrate level. A good level to keep nitrates within is 20 ppm, but if your tap starts with 15ppm it would be asking a lot of you to manage that, so a compromise is to keep your tank nitrate levels to less than 20 ppm more than what your source water has in it. So if your tap has that 15 ppm of nitrate you would be doing a 50% water change when the level in the tank reached 35 ppm nitrate. That would put you down to 25ppm and you have some unknown time that the levels will creep back up to 35ppm. That rate depends on how many fish you have and how much you feed. It might take 10 days or it could take 5 or less. Do the tests at first and the tank will tell you how often it needs a water change given these guidelines.

If you are dedicated you might not care if it needs a change every few days, but that does leave you with a very small margin of error as to what could go wrong. It can be fun to have that much in a tank, but it is work and should your pump fail you don't have as much leeway time to catch a problem because things build up faster.

Success wise it is easier to have extra wiggle room in your maintenance schedule. If your tank takes two weeks to get to 20 ppm nitrate more than tap and you do weekly water changes you will have an easier time getting away with things like going on vacation for a week or even two weeks.
 
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FreshyFresh

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Yep, it's pretty simple math. If you're showing 30ppm nitrates in your tank and you do a 50% water change, the nitrates should drop to 15ppm. Do another 50% and they should be ~7.5%. This is why I never do less than a 50% WC on any of my tanks. On my oscar and severum tank, I dump the water until they start flopping over on their sides. Add my Seachem dechlor, then re-fill with a hose.
 
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