u.v. sterilizer and water evaperation

It shouldn't, no.
 
legalize arowana thats funny


hm,mm it seems like im getting more evap. since i installed it
 
i dont run mine very often but i've never notice any change in evap. i do have open top tanks so i get quite a bit
 
None at all.

does a u.v sterilizer cause water to evaperate quicker?

I run UV 24/7 on fully covered tanks, never less than 1/2 watt UV per gallon, if possible.

I have not noticed increased evaporation, but UV only increases my temps one or two degrees. I guess this must accelerate evaporation to some degree--just not a noticeable degree for me.

If the UV increases your temperatures, you could be noticing increased evaporation from that.

Now, when humidity levels drop, either in my home, or locally, for the whole area (and the two conditions tend to coincide), I have noticed increased evaporation of the tanks. I even think barometric pressures influence this to noticeable levels--especially low barometric pressures combined with higher temps.

Regards,
TA
 
i had the ich. so i put it on my tank and now just leaving it on so i dont get sick anymore. and it is supposed to help with algea and keeps the water cleaR
 
i had the ich. so i put it on my tank and now just leaving it on so i dont get sick anymore. and it is supposed to help with algea and keeps the water cleaR


Unfortuantly a UV sterilizer wont cure ich. The parasites eggs etc lives in the substrate rockwork, filter media. You will continue to have outbreaks on the fish. All a UV is doing is killing the parasite if it is free floating in the water column. That is if the parasite that is free floating goes past the UV light.

A UV isnt a option to remove and kill the disease.
 
Unfortuantly a UV sterilizer wont cure ich. The parasites eggs etc lives in the substrate rockwork, filter media. You will continue to have outbreaks on the fish. All a UV is doing is killing the parasite if it is free floating in the water column. That is if the parasite that is free floating goes past the UV light.

A UV isnt a option to remove and kill the disease.

You really need to knock off with the disinformation!

Yes, UV will ABSOLUTELY kill ICK.

ICK cannot cyst into a dormant state forever in your gravel, in a wet/warm/safe environment the ICK life cycle does NOT "freeze in place" or go into suspended animation. It will eventually have to go to the free swimming stage to infect/attach to your fish. If it fails to do so, it will die from lack of food/nutrition. Logic will simply provide you with the truth here, well, logic and having taken Biology 101.

You must run the UV, CONSTANTLY, though AT LEAST one whole/complete lifecycle of the ICK to kill/remove it, minimum. Personally, I would exceed that time period by a factor of two--just for my own piece of mind. And, in reality, I run UV on ALL my tanks 24/7. I have not seen a case of ICK since doing so.

Now, all that said, it IS possible for the ICK to go into some suspended state somewhere, in the tank, possibly. Such as above the water line in a relative dry environment, in a crack in such a place, etc. So, it is quite possible the ICK may return at some later date. IF THERE IS NO UV RUNNING. If it does, guess what, turn the UV back on, duh!

If you doubt me, there is a relatively easy test, to test and find the truth for yourself--simply run the UV 24/7 for a month. See if there is any ICK on your fish after just a few days--end of story ...

Regards,
JS
 
You really need to knock off with the disinformation!

Yes, UV will ABSOLUTELY kill ICK.

ICK cannot cyst into a dormant state forever in your gravel, in a wet/warm/safe environment the ICK life cycle does NOT "freeze in place" or go into suspended animation. It will eventually have to go to the free swimming stage to infect/attach to your fish. If it fails to do so, it will die from lack of food/nutrition. Logic will simply provide you with the truth here, well, logic and having taken Biology 101.

You must run the UV, CONSTANTLY, though AT LEAST one whole/complete lifecycle of the ICK to kill/remove it, minimum. Personally, I would exceed that time period by a factor of two--just for my own piece of mind. And, in reality, I run UV on ALL my tanks 24/7. I have not seen a case of ICK since doing so.

Now, all that said, it IS possible for the ICK to go into some suspended state somewhere, in the tank, possibly. Such as above the water line in a relative dry environment, in a crack in such a place, etc. So, it is quite possible the ICK may return at some later date. IF THERE IS NO UV RUNNING. If it does, guess what, turn the UV back on, duh!

If you doubt me, there is a relatively easy test, to test and find the truth for yourself--simply run the UV 24/7 for a month. See if there is any ICK on your fish after just a few days--end of story ...

Regards,
JS


Dis information...

Tell me what I said that isnt true?? It should be noted that these tomites will only survive for 48 hours, if they do not find a fish to attach to. These tomites will also attach to plants, filter material, etc. So if you move a plant from an infected tank into a clean tank, you have just infected the clean tank with ich. Depending on the water temperature, the whole cycle can take from 4 days to several weeks.

UV sterilization will not cure infected fish of bacterial or fungal diseases.

Tell me what I said is wrong? I dont see what I said to be wrong information. A uv Sterilzer will not cure the ich and get rid of it.

Is everyone always so nice on this board?
 
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