Otocinclus Questions

Riso-chan

The Blue Girl
Jan 17, 2005
322
0
0
40
Florida, USA
Hello again! I just bought 3 small otocinclus cats for my brown algea problem. Never noticed how cute they were. Well, I had some questions about my tank conditions and the requirements of these fish. A few things, my water is pretty hard, ph high, and the temp can drop down below 70 degrees, which the sources I've read say are not good for otos. Now, is this true or are they adaptable? They look to be pretty young. The other thing is that I wanted to add swortails and lfs has said to add salt for them, and I've read that otos don't like salt.

Test results are as follows:

Nitrate 40ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Hardness 250ppm
Alkalinity/buffering capacity 240ppm
Ammonia 0.25
PH between 8.0-8.4

Tank Specs

55 gal
Topfin 60 filter (changing to Emperor bio-wheel)
10% water change weekly

9 zebra danio
6 white clouds
3 otos
30-25 ghost shrimp

cabomba
hornwart
2 anubias
 
Well, there is some very interesting stuff in there. First of all, why does the temperature swing so drastically? Tropical tanks need heaters. I know you have white clouds, but a constant temperature, even if it is low, would be better all around for your fish. The Otos will adapt to your pH and hardness. Also, you don't really need to add salt to your tank if you get swordtails. The hard, alkaline water will make them feel right at home even without salt, and they can live a long, normal, happy and healty life without any salt in their tanks ever.

Most fish will adapt to most pH given time. If you purchase from a local breeder or shop, they more than likely have the same source water as you, so the water really will not be that different.

On to the numbers. How old is this tank? A cycled tank, especially a planted one, should read 0 for ammonia and nitrites. Also, I change a lot more water per week than you, and I have no algae problems. I do 50% water changes and suck out all the junk with a gravel vac.

Anyway, look into a heater, even if you set it low.
 
Numbers

My tank is roughly 1 1/2- 2 months old. I don't have alot of plants, just 2 anubias, a few bunches of cabomba(Which isn't doing so well) and one bunch of hornwart(recently added). I did lose a few plants before this, which might have affected the tank readings. I am going to get a heater soon, what wattage does it need to be for a 55 gal?
The other question I have is about plants, do you think hornwart will be good to add more of if I take out the cabomba? I know that they are good at soaking up excess nutrients as evident in their fast growth, but do you think it would be better if I just had hornwart and the anubias since I'm a beginner to aquatic plants on a college grad buget? Seems to me that if they are not a soft leaved plant like cabomba, and are rather the opposite that they might work better for me. And I probably should do a bigger water change. Is 25% the amount I should change or less?
 
To add to Harlock's good advice, IME otos are fairly sensitive. It would be a good idea to do some hefty water changes to get that ammonia down to 0 - 50% daily if you have to. I'd also suggest getting a heater ASAP - otos prefer higher temperatures and won't do well with temperature swings.

If you've got a little hornwort, chances are soon you'll have a lot of hornwort - no need to purchase more, it grows like *ahem* a weed ;)
Cabomba needs quite a bit of light to stay happy AFAIK. How much light is on the tank? If it doesn't survive, I believe that hornwort can be planted in the gravel like a stem plant even though it doesn't grow roots - it grows root-like structures that hold it in place.
 
You believe correctly, Blinky. Hornwort can be planted. I think it's a great plant, but a bleach dip killed mine and woof, was that ever a mess. And since I can't be safe in dipping it, I am pretty much content to not have it. Maybe someday if I find someone who has some that I trust. ;)
 
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