Oscar with Hole in the Head failing treatment

Chris101010

Registered Member
Jul 8, 2006
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Hi,
I have a juvenile Oscar with Hole in the Head disease. When I got him about a year ago, my plan was to keep him in a 30 gallon tank until he grew a little bit more sizeable, and then to transfer him to a 175 gallon tank. Just days were left before my Oscar was to pack up his things and head to his mansion to join a few other “tank busters” equal to his new size. It was then that I first noticed the tell-tale signs of Hole in the Head disease.
The disease revealed itself in the form of two small craters superior to his “nostrils”. I checked a few of my tank’s vitals and they were as follows: pH 8.4, temp 83, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 70 (!). The tank is fitted with the Eclipse filtration system, which was working fine. I knew the pH was high, but it had always been and attempts at lowering it had been utterly fruitless so far—I even endeavored to hire a water quality expert to determine the problem, which turned up no solutions. The nitrates were unexpectedly and unacceptably high so I immediately did a water change. This brought them down to around 40 ppm, which was still high but, again, due to the water quality of my tap water, as low as I could get them. I also diversified my fish’s plate for several weeks thereafter, adding vitamin drops to his food and trying new, more nutritional foods. The craters showed slight improvement, but were not healing as I had hoped. I then removed the charcoal from the water and added Parasite Clear for two days and saw minimal benefit. Panicking, I began to add Cichlid Salt to the water (trusting in the theory that a fish with this disease may have a lack of trace minerals in his diet) as well as sea salt. One day, after no improvement had been noted, I added quite a bit of sea salt to the water in the amount that was recommended to me by a “fish expert” from my local shop. This clearly stressed him out and he began to float sideways at the bottom of the tank. Poor guy. I did a 100% water change and he soon recovered, albeit cursing my name.
Paradoxically, what almost killed him perhaps cured him. Within a day, his lesions began to heal and no trace of them could be found after 3 days. So...what cured him? Was it the frantic water change? The salt? The change in food? Parasite Clear? I’m dying to know because my poor fish has somehow contracted the disease again, and I don’t think he’s going to make it through this time. The disease has created new craters where the others had healed, as well as two on the right side of his head. The two on this side are healing pretty well after the above treatments, but the two craters on the front of his face have gotten deeper. Worse still, there appears to be holes within the holes themselves. They are small, but appear to be growing in diameter—like expanding peepholes peering into what may soon be his brain.
Needless to say, I’m utterly distraught at these developments. There is one thing I haven’t tried, and that is the “almost-kill-the-fish-with-sea-salt” technique that Deus ex machina saved him last time. I’m hesitating with that option, but may go with it if I do not see improvement in the next few days. Or maybe I should continue with Parasite Clear, even though the box only calls for a total of two treatments? I also thought that perhaps I should just move him to the bigger tank, in the hopes that the extra space would cure him. I reconsidered only because I was able to heal him last time in the same 30 gallon tank.
I’m very unsure of what to do, and am very afraid of losing my pal. I’ve saved him before—once when he was almost eaten alive (he lost almost every fin and scale on his body) and again when he got Hole in the Head the first time. I’d sure love to see him alive and well in that new tank.

-Chris
 
Well what are you feeding. If you ever feed him live fish and kept on doing that, that might be the problem. Oscars are one of the most likely to get hole in the head by live fish. So if you are feeding it live fish, STOP. Welcome to the forum. :hi:
 
I believe there is something you could add to your water which might help. I have NOT used it, but others have said it really helps keep nitrates low. It is Easy Balance with NITRABAN, made by Tetra. If I am understanding you, your reading of 40 nitrates is what comes from the tap - or close to it?

If you don't want to do the Easy Balance, you could try putting some Purigen in your filter box. It might also help as it acts like a nitrogen magnet. It is made by Seachem.

The medicine of choice for HITH is Metronidazole. If your fish is still eating, the best way to get it in him is by soaking his food in a bit of dissolved Metro. (Use warm water to dissolve it, stir it frequently and pour the water over his dry food if he eats it, or dry out some frozen bloodworms until they are just damp and then pour the medicine over that and soak it a bit.)

Usually HITH is brought on by poor water quality, and an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I assume that you weren't as regular in your water changes in the past? Could be a hard learned lesson here.

Hopefully you can pull him through again. Metro is best when treated internally, so try to get him to eat the stuff. It doesn't dissolve that well when added to the tank.

Cath
 
My usual response to HITH/HLLE...

HITH/HLLE Treatment(s)

(1)Water Quality
Get your water quality/chemistry perfect, NH3-0, NO2-0, NO3- 0/20ppm,
check your filters & clean'em if necessary (reduces alot of NO3), gravel vac & PWC, do small PWC's (25%) every other day.
Just about everyone will agree that bad water chemistry and HITH go together like apple pie -n- ice cream...

(2)Diet
Feed a well balanced and varied diet* (See below).

(3)Vitamin Supplements
Add liquid vitamin supplements to all food and vary their diet.
Soak or load everything you feed the fish with vitamins until cured and watch your water.
Vitamins that you add to your tanks water are worthless (IMO).
We use "Vita Chem", our fish get it regularly.
This particular brand is available at most on-line retailers and at better LFS's (We get ours at BigAls).
http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=27489;category_id=3781;pcid1=2911;pcid2=

(4)Supplementary treatment(s)
I would add a dose of salt to the tank, this helps lower stress, encourages slime-coat production and gill function amongst other things.
Also a dose of Melafix and Pimafix, these have been known to help healing.

(5)Medicate
Alot of folks blame Hexamita for HITH and thus treat for it with medications, BUT, studies have been done showing that Hex (and others) is/are a secondary infection/s (Whether or not Hexamita plays a key-role with HITH infections is controversial).
You need to do what "You" feel is right and correct after researching this for yourself, google "HITH causes prevention and cure" or some such, and visit Cichlid specific forums for more info.

Some folks also think that filter carbon dust plays a role...
Carbons role is controversial.

Some folks also think that stray electrical currents are to blame...
Stray electrical currents role is controversial at best.

It seems there are no absolutes as to the cause, but just like ICH there are many ways to treat it and proponenets/opponents of each treatment.

I say again though...
Perfect water quality and a varied nutritious diet supplemented with vitamins.

Here's a good article on HITH available here at Oscarfish,
http://www.oscarfish.com/cms_view_article.php?aid=3
For more simply Google, 'HITH' or 'HLLE'.

DIET
A quality cichlid pellet or stick should make up 75-80% of your O's diet.
These are my primary foods...
Pellets, Carnivore sticks, freezedried krill, algae wafers, fresh nightcrawlers, fresh/freezedried earthworm (Any worms are great foods!), fresh crickets, fresh mealworms, almost any insect I catch (Insects from outside do pose a risk of insecticides which can harm your fish, be careful.).
I feed or have fed my O all of these foods...
Raw/cooked shrimp, small bits of raw cut fish, beefheart, bitesize bits of fruits-n-veggies (zucchini, carrot, shelled peas, shelled corn, apple, orange, pear, papya and etc...), small tree/grass frogs (NO toads, and know which frog species your feeding as some can be toxic too.) and properly quarantined or raised feeder fish, these should be fed sparingly and rotated as snacks or dessert.
Do not feed unquarantined feeder fish from LFS/LPS, do not feed mammalian flesh (Animal fats from mammals and fowl are very bad for most fish).
I supplement his nutrition by soaking his pellets 4-5 times a week in a liquid vitamin.
I use Vita-Chem, available at some LFS's and on-line retailers, I get mine at BigAl's, http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=27487;category_id=3781;pcid1=2911;pcid2=
Alot of different types and brands are used, Liquid Centrum for example, but you could reasonably use any quality L. vitamin.
 
Wow thanks so much for replying so quickly and with so much useful information. I'm definitely going to make some further changes to his diet (including soaking his food in met.) and will try Nitraban. Thanks.
 
A year ago your Oscar may have been a juvenile, but if he's still in that 30 gallon tank, you need to get him out of there. If not, you're in for a constant battle against HITH.
 
Yup I'm moving him ASAP. When I moved him the first time he was still too small and got beaten up, but now that he's grown, even though he seems to have plenty of swimming room, as soon as his disease shows signs of relenting he's gone.
 
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