I have two(rusty & blue unknown) 1 inch fish in a 10gal hospital tank. I'm treating them of ick with Aquari-Sol & was wondering how long do I continue treatment before they are cured?
Ick meds?
- Thread starter tha cichlid man
- Start date
patoloco
De seguro no sabes lo que dice aqu
ICH is a parasite and it's very likely it is spread on thwe tank where those fish got infected. There is very good article in the newbee froum about ich treatment. Go read it.
This is the link
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39759
And, traet the source tank too, to eliminate all the ich parasites and asvoid a reinfection. A total cure might take up from 10 to 20 days in average.
This is the link
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39759
And, traet the source tank too, to eliminate all the ich parasites and asvoid a reinfection. A total cure might take up from 10 to 20 days in average.
The fish came from lfs & they never even been in my main tank I dont put "NEW FISH" in my main tank till I know it's safe to do so. I will check out that thread in newbee forum Thank.
RE: Ick Meds
My absolute favorite is "Ick Clear" fizz tabs made by a company called Jungle Labs. I've used it to clear ick within 3 days (you can do 4 to be on the safe side) and the good thing about it is that it does NOT change your water color like that nasty quick cure stuff. It costs about 3 bucks for 8 tabs (1 tab per 10 gallons per day of treatment). :thm:
tha cichlid man said:
My absolute favorite is "Ick Clear" fizz tabs made by a company called Jungle Labs. I've used it to clear ick within 3 days (you can do 4 to be on the safe side) and the good thing about it is that it does NOT change your water color like that nasty quick cure stuff. It costs about 3 bucks for 8 tabs (1 tab per 10 gallons per day of treatment). :thm:
I advise against using any type of ich medication. The best method is salt + heat, and pataloco already provided the link. Great!
alex818:
You have not removed ich from that tank. Just because the ich spots are gone, does not mean the ich is gone. It means the ich has hatched and is maturing in your substrate. It is a parasite that will live in your substrate until it is old enough to swim out and find a fish host. The only time you can kill it is when it is free-swimming.
It takes 2 weeks to fully erradicate all of the ich from the tank.
Roan
alex818:
You have not removed ich from that tank. Just because the ich spots are gone, does not mean the ich is gone. It means the ich has hatched and is maturing in your substrate. It is a parasite that will live in your substrate until it is old enough to swim out and find a fish host. The only time you can kill it is when it is free-swimming.
It takes 2 weeks to fully erradicate all of the ich from the tank.
Roan
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Roan Art said:
It has been over a year... I dont see any signs of ich.. Could it be that they are in hibernation? Get a life...
Roan is right about the ich, instead of being close minded and sarcastic, you might try actually reading and learning. That is after all what these forums are for. Ich cannot be killed in 3 days, but you'd know that if you actually read the article. You'd also know it does not have a dormant stage, you'd know that it can hide fairly well in your tank, and you'd know why salt is prefferred by many over meds. You'd know that many meds are effective, but none of them will get the job done in 3 days.
It's up to you whether or not you chose to educate yourself, however when you start posting incorrect information due to an obvious lack of knowledge about the subject at hand you can fully expect folks like Roan to correct that info. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to help someone who is so close minded they won't even try to learn.
The original poster is here to learn. please do not get in the way of that with incorrect information and then insult those who are truly trying to help.
Dave
it's a good idea to vaccuum the gravel during the treatment phase since this helps to rid the substrate of that stage that is living there while waiting to become 'infective'.
alot of folks 'think' that they have eliminated the parasite when they see no more white spots on the fish. as others have stated, that is the only phase of the parasite that can be effectively killed ... but this protozoan has a very complex life cycle: Mature parasites, which have been feeding on the host tissues, fall away to the bottom of the aquarium where they become enclosed in a membrane forming a cyst. At this stage they divide, each cyst producing hundreds of infective 'swarmers'. These swim throughout the tank attaching to host fish and if they don't find one within 24-48 hours they die.
The time to complete the full life cycle (from fish through cyst and back to fish) varies with temperature -- the higher the temp the faster the cycle. Three days at 70deg. and five weeks or more at 50deg.F.
While the parasite is attached to the host it is protected by at least one layer of tissue and possibly more and thus is immune from treatment by chemical parricides. The treatment is therefore targeted at the free-swimming stage and thus takes a considerable length of time to kill all the encysted larvae since they do not become free swimming all at once.
Various treatments include one of several proprietary anti-parasitics such as formalin alone or in combination with malachite green, copper, acriflaven, triethylene glycol and victoria green or salt.
Certain scaleless fish, particularly catfish and clown loaches may be sensitive to these chemicals and should only be treated with paracides specifically formulated for them. Alternative treatment which obviates the need for chemicals of any kind is use of high temperature -- 90 deg.F for several hours a day every 3-5 days will eventually rid the tank of 'Ich'.
While most conventional medications state that they cure 'Ich' within 24-48 hours this is not true. The white spots may disappear but the encysted stages remain for several weeks more and may re-infect weak or poorly conditioned fish.
alot of folks 'think' that they have eliminated the parasite when they see no more white spots on the fish. as others have stated, that is the only phase of the parasite that can be effectively killed ... but this protozoan has a very complex life cycle: Mature parasites, which have been feeding on the host tissues, fall away to the bottom of the aquarium where they become enclosed in a membrane forming a cyst. At this stage they divide, each cyst producing hundreds of infective 'swarmers'. These swim throughout the tank attaching to host fish and if they don't find one within 24-48 hours they die.
The time to complete the full life cycle (from fish through cyst and back to fish) varies with temperature -- the higher the temp the faster the cycle. Three days at 70deg. and five weeks or more at 50deg.F.
While the parasite is attached to the host it is protected by at least one layer of tissue and possibly more and thus is immune from treatment by chemical parricides. The treatment is therefore targeted at the free-swimming stage and thus takes a considerable length of time to kill all the encysted larvae since they do not become free swimming all at once.
Various treatments include one of several proprietary anti-parasitics such as formalin alone or in combination with malachite green, copper, acriflaven, triethylene glycol and victoria green or salt.
Certain scaleless fish, particularly catfish and clown loaches may be sensitive to these chemicals and should only be treated with paracides specifically formulated for them. Alternative treatment which obviates the need for chemicals of any kind is use of high temperature -- 90 deg.F for several hours a day every 3-5 days will eventually rid the tank of 'Ich'.
While most conventional medications state that they cure 'Ich' within 24-48 hours this is not true. The white spots may disappear but the encysted stages remain for several weeks more and may re-infect weak or poorly conditioned fish.