Eheim Classic canister filters - media bag necessary?

tekonus

...meh?
Nov 20, 2008
471
1
16
Long Island, NY
I'm jumping back into the hobby after 2-3 years with no tank. Setting up a 55 and ordered a 2217 which will be arriving tomorrow. My old canisters always had media trays and such that made things easy to clean. The 2217 just seems to have everything layered in there, with nothing really keeping everything separated. I was considering getting a larger-holed media bag for the biomedia so that it will still get adequate flow-through and make it easier to take out individually for cleaning. Would anyone advise for/against this, or recommend a particular type of media bag that fits the biomedia well? I am going to use the media the filter comes with.
 
I've never owned an Eheim Classic, but I know how highly regarded they are in the hobby. I believe they're kind of backwards to typical trayed canisters, where on the classics, the 'dirtiest' of your mechanical media is on top and your bio media is in the bottom. Given that, I'd have no problem keeping bio media loose in the bottom, but a coarse mesh bag would probably make things a bit neater and easier to service.
 
I've owned Eheim classics for decades and currently run two 2217s on my 125gal. The bags are only necessary if you want to keep different media. In mine I have ceramic rings (ehfimech) in one and little ceramic balls (ehfisubstrat I think it's called) in the other. Since I only have the one kind in each, I don't need the bags.

In stead of using the pads (which can clog quickly) in mine, I have a sponge over the filter intake to act as mechanical filter. The canister media is strictly biofilter.

Mark
 
That's what I was thinking, FreshyFresh. Grabbing the bag out, shaking it out in some tank water, and throwing it back in the filter sounds a lot better than scooping the stuff out by the fistful. Once it comes in tomorrow I'll have to take some measurements and pick up a coarse media bag or two. I do have high hopes for this filter due to it being so highly regarded.
 
tekonus do you plan to put the 2217 under your aquarium stand?

Mark
 
wesleydnunder, what kind of sponge do you have over the intake? I was considering getting the Eheim one. Not sure if it's really necessary, though. I am probably just going to run the media how they recommend it at first. Yes I plan to have it under the stand.
 
wesleydnunder, what kind of sponge do you have over the intake? I was considering getting the Eheim one. Not sure if it's really necessary, though. I am probably just going to run the media how they recommend it at first. Yes I plan to have it under the stand.

I use an aquaclear sponge that I roughly shaped with scissors. I originally did this to act as mechanical filter to trap particulates but found that it also kept the mts and most of the shrimp out of the canisters as well.

When you set up your 2217, I advise that you keep the section of hose between the top filter fitting and the first quick-connect at least 24" long. That way you can more easily fill the filter and purge air out when you bring it back into service after cleaning. Here's how.

The output from the filter to the spray bar is the thinner hose and exits the top of the filter. The intake hose from the aquarium to the filter is the bigger hose and enters the filter at the bottom. When I get ready to take the filter offline for cleaning I do the following:

1. Unplug the filter from the wall receptacle
2. Close both valves on each hose
3. Disconnect the quick-connects
4. Remove the filter from under the stand
5. Release the metal latches to release the top section of the filter from the body
6. Open the valve on the top 24" section of hose that is still attached to the filter - this will more easily allow you to remove the top section (motor housing)

After cleaning I do the following to bring the filter back into service:
1. Replace the media inside, make sure the O-ring is clean, put the top back on making sure to align the latches with the indents, re-engage the latches.
2. Place the filter back under the stand and reconnect the quick-connect on the intake hose- at this point both valves on the intake hose should be closed
3. Place the end of the return hose section attached to the top of the filter over a 5 gallon bucket - the valve on this hose section should be open so it will drain into the bucket
4. Open both valves on the intake hose
5. The filter should begin filling from the bottom and air should be exiting the section of return hose that's in the 5 gallon bucket
6. When the filter is full water and air will begin entering the bucket - give the filter a little shake to release any air that's trapped in the media and impellor housing
7. After all air has been purged and only water is coming out of the hose, close the valve on the return hose section and reconnect to the rest of the return hose with the return hose quick-connect
8. Open both valves on the return hose and ensure that both valves on the intake hose are open as well
9. Plug the filter back in and ensure that water is exiting the spray bar

Mark
 
Wow. That sounds brilliant. I've been watching YouTube videos of people doing all sorts of crazy stuff to get them primed well. This seems very simple. Having the canister under the tank and opening the valves is enough to let gravity suction water out of the tank into the filter? This is brilliant! Thank you for the advice. Can't wait to open this thing up tomorrow and check it out.
 
You can use an aquarium media bag or a lingerie bag for use in the washing machine for your bio-media. I like the lingerie bag as it has a zipper.
 
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