Discus Water requirements?

GlennR

GlennR

Art Glass dude
Dec 5, 2009
18
0
0
NC mtns
www.firedancersglass.com
I used to keep discus & remember they basically liked really clean water, that was slightly acidic and soft.

I don't really remember the exact "numbers".

I've read domestic bred fish don't require a low pH.


I am on well water and have a pH meter & a TDS meter. My pH is usually between 7.0 - 7.5 and my TDS is around 120ppm.

What other measurements are important for me to take? And what are the "numbers" that I hope to see? Is TDS the same as hardness?

If somebody could fill me in on all this, or maybe direct me to a good thread or link which covers it I'd sure appreciate it.;)


thanks,
Glenn
 
I keep mine in 84-86 F, Am 0, Ni 0, Na 5, ph 7.5 (those are the only numbers I keep track of). Mine were 2 1/2" when I got them and I have done daily water changes of 30-50%. I feed them 6 times a day on kensfish.com foods to include - brine shrimp flakes, spironlina flakes, premium sinking red bits, golden pearls, premium cichlid stick mix, freeze dried bloodworms, beefheart flake with no live, frozen, or fresh meat given to them. They have grown from 2 1/2" to the 4 1/2"-5" range since the end of July, 2009. They are in a planted community tank, which goes against what most say you should do, but if you have the time to dedicate to clean the tank daily, it can be done. I spend at least an hour on that tank everyday.
 
Most domestic discus would be fine in your water. It's much easier if you don't need to try & adjust your water for all the water you'll be changing.

TDS is total dissolved solids including organics not just minerals. 120ppm is quite low, nice. Other water parameters are nitate, nitrite, ammonia, KH (carbonate hardness) & GH (general hardness). API makes a good master test & separate KH & GH test. If you haven't already look for "fishless cycling" using ammonia.

I like this site http://forum.simplydiscus.com/index.php very helpful & tons of info. I'm new to discus but have kept fish for many years, lots of different ways to keep discus but you're right, clean water is most important. I'm growing up juveniles in a bare bottom 55g with lots of feeding & (almost) daily water changes.
 
While TDS comprises organic and inorganic compounds in your water, your TDS meter is measuring the conductivity of the ionic components of the water, giving the result scaled as TDS. These include "hard" magnesium, calcium and carbonate ions as well as "soft" sodium ions.

As already stated a TDS of 120 ppm is low and will be fine for domestic strains and properly acclimated wild discus. Your ph is ok. Temp of 82- 86 F will work. Try to get your discus to eat a varied diet of protein, lipids and vegetable matter. The more variety they'll eat, the easier they will be for you to feed and the healthier they'll be.

Ammonia and nitrite should be 0, nitrate should be below 20 ppm but some folks with planted tanks dose nitrate at or above 20 ppm and their discus do fine.

Mark
 
Looks like for $15 the Tetra Laborett Master Aquarium Water Test Kit should do the job inexpensively enough.

I doubt after the tank is established and gets regular water changes I will need to test often. I'll be setting up the tank next to a main drain & hot/cold water supply lines, so water changes will be very easy. I may even automate it if I get industrious.
 
Cool, I'd love an automated water changer. I don't test all that often in established tanks either unless something seems wrong. I did get a small ammonia spike a few weeks after I got my discus & a pH crash from more than usual rain lowering the KH. My water company also sometimes changes water sources, mains break etc & you may have seasonal water changes too on a well.
Check to see if your pH changes after aging & aerating it for 24-48 hours to off gas CO2. Many people have to age water to keep pH stable, luckily I don't.
 
When doing water changes, be certain not to vary the temp more than a few degrees to avoid shocking the fish. Tank automation was recently talked about in a NEDA meeting over at SimplyDiscus, very informative.

The thing about Discus aside from how to care for them, is where you get your stock from. If you start with healthy stock, you will be much better off.
 
I agree with getting healthy stock being important. I was lucky enough to get my last ones directly from Jack Wattley while on spring break in Ft Lauderdale....I guess that's showing my age a bit!

I'll have to check to see if my pH is stable after aerating a few days. I "think" it is, but not positive.

Btw, I registered at SimplyDiscus but can't post or even view image attachments yet. Seems strange to be able to log-in, but can't post. Is there a waiting period, or something?

thanks,
 
I think it took a couple days to be able to post on SD, lots of spammers I guess.

:topic: Do you share pics of your art glass, I'd love to see :thumbsup:
 
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