Bottom dwellers (pleco & catfish) keep dying

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Mar 7, 2007
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I have a 40-gallon aquarium. I have had it going for more than 5 years. I have many fish that have been alive for that period of time but my catfish and plecos (bottom dwellers in general) keep dying.

I have had the water tested repeatedly (done monthly water changes), replaced the heater, replaced the rock, added an airstone, replaced the powerhead, all to no avail. I think the only part I haven't replaced is the undergravel filter.

Does anyone have an idea what else should be done?:huh:
 
I have cory cats and a Petsmart special Plecostomus. I feed the fish flake food; the pleco has lots of algae to feast upon for now. I used to give brine shrimp as well.
 
I have had the water tested repeatedly (done monthly water changes), replaced the heater, replaced the rock, added an airstone, replaced the powerhead, all to no avail. I think the only part I haven't replaced is the undergravel filter.

Ok. Let's try 30% water changes every week for starters. Once a month is for walmart. If you're running a UGF, try taking the water you remove off the bottom instead of the top. UGF can be lower current, and poison sinks. Last but not least, check your substrate for pockets of toxic anerobic bacteria, and the lethal gas they produce. You can do this by running your fingers through the substrate. If you get bubbles, you got toxic build up of decaying waste materials breaking down in a zero oxygen environment. Your bottom feeders disturb the substrate digging for tasty food and get a blast of poison gas right in the face and gills. This can produce sickness or even death within a very short period of time. To remove it, sift, clean, or even remove and wash your substrate. Last is a desperation measure, that's your biofilter with a UGF set up. At the least, if you get bubbles, remove your fish from the tank (put em in a bucket of tank water) sift all the bubbles out with your fingers, then do a big big water change, and replace your fish. That'll take care of the immedate threat, and you can keep sifting to keep the gas from building up.


On one more note. Algae alone is'nt enough to keep a pleco fed. Some of the non-common species require wood, meat, fresh veggies. All depends on the species. If you got him at petsmart, he's most likely a common, chocolate, bristlenose, or gold nugget. All of these like algae wafer (wardley makes a great product) and shrimp pellets (omega one is tops there).
Common or chocolate will outgrow your tank rather quickly when fed. Gold nuggets will outgrow it eventually but may take years.
 
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Ok. Let's try 30% water changes every week for starters. Once a month is for walmart. If you're running a UGF, try taking the water you remove off the bottom instead of the top. UGF can be lower current, and poison sinks. Last but not least, check your substrate for pockets of toxic anerobic bacteria, and the lethal gas they produce. You can do this by running your fingers through the substrate. If you get bubbles, you got toxic build up of decaying waste materials breaking down in a zero oxygen environment. Your bottom feeders disturb the substrate digging for tasty food and get a blast of poison gas right in the face and gills. This can produce sickness or even death within a very short period of time. To remove it, sift, clean, or even remove and wash your substrate. Last is a desperation measure, that's your biofilter with a UGF set up. At the least, if you get bubbles, remove your fish from the tank (put em in a bucket of tank water) sift all the bubbles out with your fingers, then do a big big water change, and replace your fish. That'll take care of the immedate threat, and you can keep sifting to keep the gas from building up.


On one more note. Algae alone is'nt enough to keep a pleco fed. Some of the non-common species require wood, meat, fresh veggies. All depends on the species. If you got him at petsmart, he's most likely a common, chocolate, bristlenose, or gold nugget. All of these like algae wafer (wardley makes a great product) and shrimp pellets (omega one is tops there).
Common or chocolate will outgrow your tank rather quickly when fed. Gold nuggets will outgrow it eventually but may take years.
Excellent advice. I'll give it a shot. I have been taking my water from the bottom of the tank with a siphon but I didn't know about running my fingers through the rock to check for pockets of toxic gas -- you would think being married to a chemist would have some advantages in this respect.

I'll try to get this pleco to outgrow the tank. I have algae wafers and shrimp pellets but didn't know this guy would like them.

PS Maybe Walmart would have been a good User Name for me (ha ha).
 
I had no end to problems and deaths while running an UGF in my 29 gallon tank. I had tremendous difficulty establishing a stable cycle. I removed my fish, ripped the UGF out and started again. I still had problems so I started totally fresh with a 40 gallon acrylic tank, no more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch of river sand, a canister filter, and now a hang-on-back cheapie TopFin 40 filter I bought for additional filtration. I used Nutrafin Cycle from PetsMart to ramp up bacteria colonies fast, as my 29 gallon still wasn't very stable and I figured if I was going to struggle with a cycling tank, may was well let it be the bigger tank. So far, so good. It cycled very quickly and with a canister filter I was able to use adsorption pads to help control toxins while the bacteria established themselves. I still could get spikes, but they were not as high.

Then I worked on the 29 gallon tank and still continued to have problems until I siphoned out most of the substrate, once again leaving less than an inch.

From what I've learned from my struggles with a UGF is that even with diligent gravel vacuuming and water changes, a UGF requires you to have a somewhat thick and large grain sized substrate layer. If you have rocks or any decor in the tank, that reduces the efficiency of the UGF and anaerobic pockets tend to form.

UGF's also tend to pull the food down out of reach of your catfish and if you have gravel large enough to not get caught in the slots, then the food just ends up caught in the gravel and fouling your water faster than you can keep up with it.

My dad has had great success with UGF's in his tanks over the years and that's why he set my tank up with one. But he never was that much into catfish, and so he didn't end up overfeeding a tank just to make sure the cories could compete with the UGF suction to get enough to eat.
 
Another testimonial for RUGF.

Sounds like this one is nailed. It would be great to have a set of readings on the tank.
 
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