Phosphates

M

mroth_3

shrimp boat captain
Dec 24, 2008
270
0
0
Iowa
I am having algae issues and its killing my desire to have planted tanks and I dont particularly care for tanks that aren't planted. From discussing the problem localy, I have found there are high levels of phosphates in our tap water. Its also somewhat hard with a ph of over 9 out of the tap. I have a 12hr photoperiod. Its difficult to reduce that as I dont have the money to get 7 timers for each tank at the moment.

the bigger water changes I do, the more algae that appears. Im looking for inexpensive options for reducing phosphates. The have filter media at the store for canister filters but it is 10$ a packages and there is only enough for two canisters in the package, so it would get pricey fast. My smaller tanks dont have canisters either. The primary algae seems to be a hair algae on the plant leaves. I dont mind the algae on the class as it is easy to clean and doesnt destroy the leaves of the plants.

does anyone know of options to reduce the phosphates/algae? I have never had to deal with phosphate problems before. I know there is the reduced photoperiod option but 12hrs doesn't seem terribly out of line compared to other peoples. The lighting on the tanks vary but its about 2-2.4 watts per gallon and primary plants are crypts, sag, java moss/ferns, and a few other low to med light plants. The 1 year old light on my 65 just crapped out so Im looking to get a new one. Any suggestions on what I should go with? I dont do C02 and ferts with each water change generally weekly to 3 a month. Thanks
 
First: What are your phosphate readings? I keep my phosphates at around 5-7PPM to feed my plants and avoid certain algaes

What kind of algae do you have?

If i were you i would really spend the 8 dollars it costs to pick up a timer for your tank. and then limit your photo period to 8 hours/day maximum. having 2-2.4wpg of light can be a lot can can push the limits of not having co2 injection on your tank.

Since you do not inject co2 i am going to assume that you have BBA algae and in order to get rid of that you should up your co2 concentration in your tank. or dose Flourish Excel by Seachem. the later is actually doubles as an algaecide and can help cover up the source of your problem - not enough co2.

do you have GSA on your glass? if you do you dont have high phosphates as high phosphates will get rid of GSA.

If you have the money to purchase a phosphate reducer that you will have to replace monthly/weekly then i think you have the money to pick up a cheap timer which you will only need to buy once in 10 years.

If you dont want to spend money i would suggest you shrink your photoperiod and the intensity of your lighting.
 
yeah I agree your biggest problem is your photoperiod. 12 hours of moderate light for low light plants is pretty much going to create algae problems. If your tanks are relatively small (under 100G) I would recomend getting the big jug of seachem excel and dosing that. It'll help all around. Also, I'm not sure why you would need 7 timers per tank...you generally only need 1 per tank. If the tanks are all in close proximity, you can probably even use 1 timer for more than 1 tank. Just hook all the lights up to a power strip and then put the power strip on the timer.
 
Your issue isn't an overabundance of phosphate, it is a lack of nitrate and potassium. Get your macros balanced, apply enough CO2 and light, and your algae woes will disappear. The problem with vascular plants is that they require fairly specific parameters. Algae does too, bu there ar enough species of algae to account for every conceivable parameter. Get some KNO3 from aquariumfertilizer.com and go nuts.
 
mroth_3 said:
the bigger water changes I do, the more algae that appears.
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that sounds like a cyano issue to me brought on by too little n.


mroth_3 said:
does anyone know of options to reduce the phosphates/algae? I have never had to deal with phosphate problems before.
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i wouldn't even be interested... phosphates seem to keep algae at bay and not hurt anything in a f/w system so mine stay high and everythings happy.

mroth_3 said:
I know there is the reduced photoperiod option but 12hrs doesn't seem terribly out of line compared to other peoples.
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nope, my one tanks goes up to 15 hours a day but it's lower light than yours is.

mroth_3 said:
The lighting on the tanks vary but its about 2-2.4 watts per gallon and primary plants are crypts, sag, java moss/ferns, and a few other low to med light plants. The 1 year old light on my 65 just crapped out so Im looking to get a new one. Any suggestions on what I should go with? I dont do C02 and ferts with each water change generally weekly to 3 a month. Thanks
Click to expand...

this last part seems like a possible miriad of problems. over 2 wpg for lowlight plants, no co2 and barely ferted scares me. topping that with running bulbs till they blow and you're asking for trouble imo. if it was just a bulb randomly went bad or something that's a different story.
 
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