MAG 250 best media configuration finally discovered!

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CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
I recently purchased 5 Hot Mag 250’s, one for each tank for use as an augmenting filter for each tanks main filter which are either the FX5 or a pair of Mag 350’s. Each Hot Mag was going to be used either for polishing or carbon for the purpose of being able to quickly change out media since the How Mag 250 is a light portable HOB canister. So much for history.

One of the weaknesses of the Hot Mag is that it is so small yet powerful in GPH that it is hard to come up with a media configuration that has both excellent dirt catching ability and endurance without clogging the media to a trickle with dirt too early. Sometimes requiring media cleaning as early a 1 week and usually no more then 3 weeks before the clogged media has slowed GPH to a trickle. This which brings me to the subject and purpose of this thread.

Over the past 3 months I have been trying out many media configurations involving different applications of the stock media, sponges, Poly fill, Poly batten, carbon, screens, Bio fiber, rings, Bio balls, exc, exc. Each time the results were either great dirt filter accumulation with short endurance before cleaning was required, or fair dirt accumulation with long endurance before cleaning was required, but never both. That is not until this evening!

This evening as I was in the process of changing out the last Hot Mag 250 from a custom media configuration I was trying to the Micron Cartridge I truly did not expect to find much dirt because The filter had been running now for more then a month with no diminished flow. But what I found completely surprised me.

The Photo's below shows a picture taken after I had already cleaned the stock blue outer Hot Mag sponge and the custom inner strainer sock I had made with cut and sewn blue/white bonded bio pad. So the photo only does it partial justice. The evidence in the pail of once clean water and the still filthy Poly wool that was packed inside the media basket removed and laying in the tub. Previously whenever the Poly wool became inundated with black mud like dirt it always would clog the inner strainer and diminish flow by 80%, however by creating the blue/white bonded sock around the inner strainer it acted like a porous strainer and buffer that did not allow the mud filled Poly to clog the plastic strainer holes. So even though dirt continued to pile up more and more inside the filter media, most of the water flow remained unrestricted which IMO is really the breakthrough I was looking for.




So here is how it was configured. First cut a tube size portion of blue/white bonded bio pad and sew it into a tube shape for the “large hole strainer”. Then assemble the media basket as normal.

Then as seen below lightly pack the media basket from the top opening with Poly wool using a chopstick to position each clump of wool working from the bottom all the way around the blue/white bonded pad covering the strainer. Do not pack the wool tightly like stuffing a pillow, but rather completely yet airy without compressing.


Now below note the three layers of filter media starting from the inside out with the "large hole strainer", then the blue/white bonded sock protecting the “large hole strainer” from clogging, followed by the Poly fill lightly packed, followed by the outermost blue sponge sock.


Try this configuration with your small Hot Mag and I promise you will not only be very impressed by how well it filters out dirt (as always) but the incredible amount of endurance the filter will last between cleanings now the polishing Poly fill cannot matt against the strainer holes directly due to the offset provided by the blue/white bonded bio pad sock, which can be rinsed and reused many times, the Poly fill tossed out and replaced of course.
 

RodInCALIFORNIA

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you never cease to amaze ........
 

CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
Believe me I wasn't planning on posting this and in fact was about to just keep it to myself since I doubted anyone would believe it. But I can tell you that the key here is the blue/white bonded pad material cut to size and sewn into a tub sock to fit snugly over the large hole strainer. The reason why it worked compared to any plastic strainer alone is because of the blue/white bond pad's irregular woven surface which keeps the easily matted poly wool/or batten from forming a water seal, which normally would occur against hard surface like a plastic or metal strainer. No matter how clay inundated the Polly gets it cannot form that water tight seal against the blue/white bonded pad for an extended period of time probubly as long as 2 months.

The tube you see was made out of old blue/white bonded pad that came out of my old DIY canister that had been used several times. I made the sock using cheap $1 dental floss as just a "shot-in-the dark" that it might work, but never did I expect these results with the amount of sustained water flow after more then a month about 90%.

The only reason I pulled the filter to clean it was becasue it was my last custom experimental configuration, and had given up on both high filtration and endurance idea with all my Hot Mags and had changed all but this last one to the micron cartridge, resigned to believe that the Hot Mag would always be high maintenance requiring frequent cleanings.

So this solved a big problem for me in the way I see the relationship between the strainer and high density filter media (Poly) which can clog in a circumference designed filter now solved, and now feel I can go forward with building my own large DIY circumference filter using the Fluval 404 canister as the platform and no other parts. As soon as I complete the drawings Ill post the project in a new thread.
:clap:
 

CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
When you go to make the tube sock cut it to the full length of the strainer large hole strainer so that no bypass will occur at each end even though it may bunch a little when framed in the basket.

To make it thread a sewing needle with dental floss using a threading wire which usually comes with any cheap sewing kit. make sure you have threaded enough to sew the whole length of sock about 6" which will require a thread length on the needle of about 4 feet (more then enough).

Then simply have the strainer outside the basket and rap the pre-cut length pad pad around the tube, the actual width excess you can cut later after you have stitched the two ends around the strainer.

Now while holding the two ends snugly around the strainer like a hot-dog bun, sew the two ends of the "hot-dog bun" together with a zig-zag stitch, do not stitch loops over the ends of the "bun" becasue you will need to strum off the excess top. Do not overlap one end of the "bun" over the top of the other becasue it will cause an open spot under the pad and bypass will occur, just the two ends together.

Once finished if you have excess loose material past the stitch you can trim it off but not too close to the stitch or the stitch will tear out of the pad. Those you you that are excellent with a needed and thread (unlike me) will be able to accomplish this in a much better manner I'm sure, if so please share how. Obviously those that have a sewing machine can create the best tube (lucky dogs) LOL.

Lastly be sure to place the white side (more porous) of the blue/white bonded pad against the strainer and the blue side out against the Poly wool fiber.
 

foolishfish

Registered Fish Offender
Dec 10, 2008
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Ya had me right up to the end there Chief. Why the smaller pore out & larger pore in?
I've got a bunch of Hot Mags that I had resigned myself to regularly having to swap microns out of also. The media basket with a layer of felt rubber banded around the outside had been my only alternative in the past with limited success. Did you get anywhere wrapping different media around the micron cart? I've just gotten kind of used to them clogging every week regardless.

Haven't had time to try it yet but I had considered cutting two pcs. of the perforated 2 1/2" tubing (a larger version of the media container's inner most tube that i get at Jehmco) and sewing them back together with fishing line to make an even larger cage that poly bat could be wrapped around. The idea was that I could either use this around the micron cart or try this; add a 10 ppi or denser foam block and a felt wrap around the inner most tube.

I've been using 10" long X 4" dia. 10ppi reticulated foam prefilters on most of my magnums and it hasn't made any significant difference in the time it takes to clog the microns.

Gunner, you have any idea what your final output flow is with your latest mods. I was also thinking of making one of these a prefilter and pump assembly for a portable 18w. UV sterilizer in place of the evaporator wheel, er I mean biowheel. Haven't done that yet 'cuz of the insipid clogging issue. What do ya think.
 

CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
Internal filters have never appealed to me due to their discharge debris when lifted out of the aquarium creating a hailstorm of poo-doo when lifted out while draining back in.

Pre-intake filter socks, sponges or pads are a great if your are a breeder and have fry running around or in an QT tank to keep an already sick fish from getting stuck on an intake.

But for me the whole purpose of a canister intake strainer is to pick those chucks floating around that accumulate into leaf like piles if not allowed to pass through a grate size mesh and be caught and held by the canister.

The last internal grate inside the canister is a completely different issue and must have the ability to allow clean water to pass without being clogged by pasty fine matted debris. This is where the blue/white bonded pad material comes in as it has a tendency to allow water to easily pass from the blue side while becasue of its irregular microscopic textured profile, stops mud inundated Poly wool from creating a water clot against it.

The white fluff side faces the strainer because it prevents clogging against its flat hard geometrically consistent surface, the strainer is susceptible to clogging. The same reason stone retaining walls are built with a layer of gravel and then felt toward the muddy hillside so that the water can percolated out of the mud without clogging up the spaces between the stones causing a back up of water.

Besides, out of all the combination and medias I previously experimented with as mentioned before in the original post, this one which I gave the least consideration to that actually worked, after which I now understand the reason and have tried to strenuously convey that to you. All one can do is try it out.

Again I believe the key here was the blue/white bonded pad material over the last strainer that is the main reason for these results. Therefore I would not be surprised if different media in conjunction with the "Blue-Sock" will improve results where clogging had previously occurred with other medias such as fine carbon.

My new Fluval 404 project will incorporate a 2" PVC pipe made holed strainer with a capped footing that will connect with the impeller lid via DIY neoprene gasket. The PVC strainer will be wrapped in circumference by various media blue bond, sponge, and Poly Batten layers. The remaining voids partially filled by bagged porous granulated media such as carbon or rings. This should boost the Fluval 404/405 performance by 20X, without comprising the filters ability to be reverted back to stock configuration. It will simply be an insert without any baskets.
 
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roscoe70

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Apr 5, 2009
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Gunner, thanks for sharing this. I now get to use my sewing skills that my mom taught me many many years ago. Reminds me when I converted an old Diatom Vortex filter without using the DE way back when. Thanks again and good luck.
 

CWO4GUNNER

USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
Gunner, thanks for sharing this. I now get to use my sewing skills that my mom taught me many many years ago. Reminds me when I converted an old Diatom Vortex filter without using the DE way back when. Thanks again and good luck.
My pleasure, and always try to make luck the smallest part of the equation.;)
 
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